Fashion for Men: How to Wear Dark Denim

Fashion trends are cyclical; what was once old, is now new. We can thank Levi Strauss for the introduction to indigo wash denim. Originally intended as rugged work attire, denim became a symbol of disobedience as Levis secured contracts to outfit inmates. Perhaps this association with correctional facilities earned denim its initial bad boy reputation. Denim is now a fashion statement, and we should thank Dussault Apparel, Inc. for creating a pair of hand-painted denim jeans adorned with 18-carat gold, diamonds, and ruby accents accompanied by a hefty price tag of $250,000.

Guys, here’s the deal. Improperly fitting jeans look frumpy regardless of the brand name and price tag. Dropping a cool quarter-mil on pair jeans doesn’t excuse you knowing the basics about denim. Wearing dark denim in particular starts with the correct fit. No matter how you dress up, or dress down your outfit, a bad fit creates a lackluster first impression.

FIT: For a more polished appearance, jeans should be long enough to have a slight-half or full break, with slim-fit jeans hitting the ankle. Avoid rolling, cuffing, or allowing extra slack towards the end of the pant leg. You should be able to pinch a minimum of one inch, but no more than one and a half inches, of fabric on each side of your thigh.

WAIST & SEAT: Midrise jeans are typically the most flattering look, and should fit perfectly around the waist without the need for a belt. The waist should sit anywhere from the mid- to upper hip. The seat should not sag or feel tight. Instead, jeans should lightly, not tightly, hug your glutes.

STYLE & CUT: When selecting your style, you want to think fitted; not skintight, but not baggy. Depending on body type, slim fit jeans are typically the most flattering with straight leg jeans following closely behind.

KNOW YOUR CUTS:

Skinny Jeans: The tightest, snuggest fit available like spandex.

Slim Fit Jeans: Snug around the legs, slightly hugging the thighs, knees, and calves while tapering from knee to ankle.

Straight Leg Jeans: Narrow below the knee with the leg opening slightly wider than skinny jeans.

Boot Cut Jeans: Flare below the knee.

Relaxed Fit Jeans: Also called loose fit jeans, are baggier in the thigh and throughout the leg.

MEN WITH LARGER BUILD: If you are a man with a larger build, a balanced approach is best. Avoid anything with a tapered leg. If you can pinch more than one to one and a half inches of fabric on either side of your thighs, try a smaller size, consider a slimmer cut, or select a different brand.

LET’S GET DRESSED

SHOES: When assessing attire, always start with your shoes, and the occasion. Believe it or not, shoes not only make or break the outfit, but are a statement piece that creates the first impression. Don’t believe me? Try it for yourself. Throw on a nice pair of shoes and pay attention to where people’s eyes naturally drift. More often than not, they go directly to your shoes.

You can pull off dark denim with most casual dress shoes. Consider pairing your dark denim jeans with a pair of Allen Edmonds Strand Cap Toe Oxfords for dressier occasions like date night. Less formal dress shoes take the look of your jeans from casual to sophisticated. For a more laid-back look, pair your dark denim with Italian leather or suede sneakers. You can even go ultra-casual with a pair of white tennis sneakers.

SHIRTS: Dark denim can tone down bright colors and match many different styles. From t-shirts and hoodies, fitted sweaters, and long-sleeve dress shirts, to blazers with a tie, it all works. One debated fashion rule is pairing a black or a navy blue shirt with dark denim. Dark colors either go well together, or clash. Your shirt should complement your jeans, not compete with them. When in doubt, grab a different shirt. Try pairing dark denim jeans, brogues, and a white dress shirt. It is a simple but fantastic look! A small-patterned, soft-hued button-down shirt also always goes well with dark denim. In the latter scenario, your shoes dictate the degree of formality.

JACKETS & TIES: Dark denim looks great with a sports jacket, blazer, a leather jacket, or even a denim jacket providing it is of a much lighter hue. Try pairing a sports jacket with a small print short sleeve shirt and casual dress shoes. Kick it up a notch, and add a tie. For a more relaxed look, match a lighter denim jacket with a soft Henley shirt, and a pair of sneakers.

ACCESSORIES: For maximum impact, keep it simple. Add a belt and watch to your ensemble and you are off! If you are feeling edgy, break the rules a little. Pair your favorite French cuffs with casual, yet subtle cuff links.

MATCHING BELTS, SHOES, & WATCHES: This topic continues to plague all generations. Leather shoes and belts should be in the same color family. However, they do not need to be the exact tones. The more contrast between the two, the less stylish you look. In other words, tan and oxblood are not the same as brown. On that note, suede is suede. Finally, canvas belt straps should complement the outfit, not clash with your outfit. 

Now that we are wearing the best fitting jeans possible, we can start making your outfit situation appropriate! Dark denim is an essential wardrobe piece because it can be dressed up or dressed down from smart casual to date night to simply hanging out.

You may need to step outside of your comfort zone and ditch the cargos and acid wash jeans we grew to love in the ’80s and ‘90s. Stick to the essential rules, and enjoy the wardrobe flexibility dark denim provides.

There is no doubt this fashion staple upgrades your wardrobe and is a fashion staple with the versatility to be worn in any situation for a timeless look. Let’s face it, everything goes well with dark denim.

KEEP THESE IN MIND:

• Pinch an Inch: A minimum of one inch of fabric, but no more than one and a half inches, on either side of the thigh.
• Say No to Seat Sag: The seat should not sag. Period.
• Cut: Know your most flattering style or cut.
• Mid-rise: Fits at the waist without a belt.
• Bottoms Up: Plan your outfit around your shoes.
• Break: Should have a slight or full break.
• Situational Awareness: Be aware of the situation; is it a smart casual setting or hanging out watching the game?
• Keep it Simple: Minimally accessorize with a belt and a watch.
• Be Brave & Have Fun: Confidence is alluring, so rock that dark denim!